Automotive Forums. Why would my "fuse box" be clicking? Ok this is a new thread to an old post, on a 98 plymouth voyager. We thought the battery was dead but before we jumped it, it started on it's on. When I turned it off it started clicking and my door thingy was dinging. My key was NOT in the switch. My husband pulled relay 13 out of the fuse box under the dash. Everything stopped then. It was burnt. With it dark and raining we couldn't fool with it very long.
I'm assuming there is a short somewhere. Any suggestions on where to start? Also all the "old" transmission symptoms and no speedometer, ect are still going on. Is there a connection maybe. Am I missing something? Any and all advice appreciated. Clicking relays are a classic sign of a week battery. Get it charged and load tested if it's 4 years old or less. Above that buy a new battery.
Make sure the battery connections are clean and tight. Hearing the chime go off with the key out - ditto.
Charging dead battery, relay constantly clicking
The BCM is powered by the battery at all times. Can you give us a link to your original thread? Was I told wrong? Thanks a bunch for your help. A low battery will not cause it to start by itselfyou either have a short some where, or the fuse box is bad or maybe the ignition switch is gone. Beth First it would be nice to know exactly which relay you're talking about.
Most schematics, including mine don't ID relays by a number. They label them with the title of the circuit they are controlling.
Can you make a better ID on the burned relay? When you replace the relay, clean the contacts as best you can using electrical contact cleaner. Spray the relay socket contacts then insert and remove the new relay several times. Spray it again and repeat. The contacts sliding in and out along with the spray cleaner should clean them.
Yes, a week battery can burn a relay.Menu Menu. Search Everywhere Threads This forum This thread. Search titles only. Search Advanced search…. Everywhere Threads This forum This thread. Search Advanced…. Log in. Trending Search forums. What's new. New posts Latest activity. Charging dead battery, relay constantly clicking. Thread starter Cogman Start date Aug 30, Sidebar Sidebar. Forums Social The Garage.
Sep 19, 10, 80 I have a ford edge I came home after a long trip to a dead battery, so I purchased a 2Amp battery charger and have been charging the battery for about the last 8 hours. So here is my question. Was the fast clicking relay preventing charging using too much energy checking if there was enough energy to run things? And should I worry about completely disconnecting the battery and charging to make sure nothing is draining it.
I'm hoping that the battery will be charged in the morning and just want to do everything I can to make sure it gets there. LTC8K6 Lifer.Ford Fusion I thought the starter was bad when I tried to start it and only got a clicking noise.
Now, when I try to start it it will not even turn over, but the is a clicking noise from the fuse box My car has an automatic transmission. This is a very common issue with many cars when the starter relay goes bad. This is a small relay that directs power from the battery to the starter that causes the starter to engage. When this is faulty, it will cause the clicking sound you describe.
For more help, I would recommend having an expert from YourMechanic come to your home to diagnose the starting issue and proceed with the proper repair. Jeff Engstrom Automotive Mechanic.
Thank Jeff. Was this answer helpful? Thank you for your feedback! Sorry about that.ford taurus clicking fuse box easy fix
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Home Questions. Make I don't know. What others are asking My car has a duel fuel system and it sometimes runs rough This is a common problem with duel fuel conversions. Read more. Why wont my car start? The click noise you hear is the starter relay working but it may not be sending power to the starter solenoid. You would need to try and replace the starter relay that is clicking and see if it cranks.
Battery saver system car won't turn and battery good and starter. Whole dash illuminates when I turn key though, no alter Have the battery load tested in case it was short circuited. Reverse polarity, at the battery, in a 12 volt electrical system on a car can cause a variety of effects including damaging the alternator, diodes and the numerous microprocessors Related articles.Car wouldn't start, even after trying to jump it.
Took the battery to AutoZone, and was told needed new one. Bought new battery, installed and still wont start. Tested voltage and am getting Could you point me in the right direction, or tell me how to test before hand what it might be? Thank you in advance!
Do you. Hello, I'm Danny. Yes, if you are hearing a click sound from under the hood with a no start condition it sounds like the starter motor solenoid may be defective. If you take the starter to your local auto parts store they will test for free. Hope this helps and thanks for using 2CarPros. Was this answer. Welcome to 2CarPros. First, it could be a few things. Since you hear a clicking from the fuse box, It's unlikely that it's a fuse, but lets confirm that.
Under the hood in the fuse box, locate the 40 amp ign2 fuse. That is the fuse that sends power to the starter relay. See pictures 1 and 2 If the fuse is good, we need to check the starter relay. It is located under the hood in the power distribution box. See pic 3. If you see a different relay in the box with the same part number, switch them to see if it makes a difference. It isn't hard, but will require a test light or voltmeter to check.
On the starter, you will find a large wire that runs direct from the battery positive. It will always have battery voltage. There will be a smaller wire that is on the solenoid S terminal.This can be caused by a computer failureresistance in the ground wire for the control side of the relay or high resistance in the power supply to the control side of the relay. Open the lid on your fuse box and take a look at the relays -- the small black cubes scattered around the fuse box.
Hold the handle of a screwdriver to your ear and touch the top of each relay with the tip of the screwdriver. Relays control a high-current circuit using low current. It makes it possible to control things like the headlights and the fuel pump without running high-amperage current into the passenger compartment.
Remove the relay from the fuse box -- It pulls straight out. Swap it with another identical relay with the same number of terminals from the fuse box see if that relay also clicks. If that relay also clicks constantly, you need to run more tests. If that relay works fine, then the original relay that was in that spot is faulty. Simply replace that relay with a new one. Look at the terminal labels on the relay. They are identified as 30, 85, 86, 87 and 87aif it is a five-terminal relay.
Terminal 30 receives constant battery voltage. Terminal 85 is the relay's connection to ground, 87 and 87a are the output terminals for whatever the relay controls and 86 is the power to the control side of the relay. Identify the slot in the fuse box that terminal 85 plugs into. Set your multimeter to read voltage on the volt scale. Plug the negative lead of your multimeter into the slot for terminal No.
Touch the positive lead to the positive battery terminal. You should see constant battery voltage. If the voltage flashes, repair the ground and ground wire that connects to terminal No. If you get a constant voltage, continue to the next step. When touching the test leads to the battery terminals, hold the leads by their plastic handles to prevent accidental electrocution.
Plug the positive lead of your multimeter into the slot for terminal No. Turn on the ignition key, then touch the positive lead of the multimeter to the negative battery terminal. If the voltage varies, the problem lies in whatever is supposed to activate the relay -- the computer or a switch, for example. Inspect, the wiring for terminal No. If you do not discover any damage to the wiring for terminal No.
This article was written by the It Still Works team, copy edited and fact checked through a multi-point auditing system, in efforts to ensure our readers only receive the best information. To submit your questions or ideas, or to simply learn more about It Still Works, contact us. Tips If you don't have a multimeter, you can purchase or rent a low-end model from your local auto parts store.
If you don't know how to use a multimeter, St. Lawrence University has published a good tutorial. Dodge trucks built between and have a common problem with the PCM. The main computer board cracks, and it causes the ASD and fuel pump to click on and off constantly. Tips Relays control a high-current circuit using low current. Warnings When touching the test leads to the battery terminals, hold the leads by their plastic handles to prevent accidental electrocution.
About the Author This article was written by the It Still Works team, copy edited and fact checked through a multi-point auditing system, in efforts to ensure our readers only receive the best information.Your scalding terminal is the problem. The current across this connection is what causes it to heat up.
Usually you will hear sizzling indicating an arc is occurring rapidly draining your battery, arcing also destroys the connection further increasing voltage dropped there. Th clicking noise is a relay failing to pick due to low voltage in electrical system. If the negative terminal is hot after a lot of cranking, that might be possible, although more typically it's the positive terminal that gets hot. If the negative terminal is hot when you haven't been cranking the starter, then something strange is happening.
It could be an internal short in the battery, but I would expect that to make a total exit pretty quick and leave you with nothing. Assuming it is not the battery, did you add some high powered stereo equipment?
The clicking noise you are hearing sounds like a relay kicking in and out. I don't know Mini's but most cars have relays for lights and other high draw circuits. So it sounds like a high draw circuit is kicking in. The fuel pump is one of those types of circuits and you will generally hear it kick in all of the time when you first turn the key on.
If you just turn the key on and hear it and then the negative cable on the battery gets hot, I'd vote for a short in either the fuel pump, starter or headlight circuit. The forum link below is a discussion about the ground. Bottom line is it's good from the factory.
Others have mentioned that the positive cable nut is known for coming loose. You should double check that, since it would cause issues. You might want to go to the forum below, join and post your question as it will have folks with Mini experience. Usually those forums are free to join. That is almost certainly a bad battery.
Trucks need pretty heavy jumper cables to start them when the battery is bad; ordinary passenger car jumper cables will get charge into a good battery but don't help much in jumping a truck with a bad battery.
In the same way, if the car used as a jump has a 4 cylinder engine Your car is in security mode turn your factory key in the driver's door left right left to difuse the security if you don't have a factory key remove the key slot and look for the number to order a new one there's a couple more methods like restarting the computer by taking off the battery cables for about 5 minutes then reclamp and the car should start y'all are lucky just got a jeep for the mountains and I have to hot wire it to start took me a whole day to resolve this issue and I now I'm just ordering a key.
Take your car to a mechanic and have them do a diagnostic on it. It could be several different things like a loose wire, blown fuse, the computer in the car, etc. Bring it to a mechanic, you have a grounding problem and you may cause further damage to the electrical components by fire or electrical shorts or even to yourself if you start messing with it.
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Q: Clicking from fuses/relays
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